Bonhams. I thought that was an auction house.
Actually, yes it is. Entering these rather smart premises, I wondered if the picture would be completed with Jeeves appearing to offer assistance. Although I was to be disappointed on this account, the service was efficient and smooth but did not have enough bowing and scraping as would be expected from a typical servant experience.
Salmon on a blini, apple foie gras sandwich. The salmon was sadly a bit lacking in depth. Although it was the foie gras sandwich which raised eyebrows. The deep flavour of the foie gras was set off by the tartness of the apple, all contained within two crispy biscuit to create, not an ice cream sandwich, but a liver surprise.
Venison tartare, with cornichons, shallot, trout roe, mustard mayonnaise and wild leaves. The roe and venison pairing was an inspired choice. The hint of mustard added a spice to the firm yet soft texture of the venison and the creaminess of the roe. This manage to satisfy my carnivorous tendencies, as I tore my way through succulent cubed raw meat.
Roast Dombes duck breast and confit leg, with caramelized endives, confit blood orange, Cheltenham beetroot and jus. A deceptively plain looking dish serving to highlight the quality of the ingredients. The duck seemed so fresh that I almost waited for it to quack at me. Moist yet not oily, flavourful but not salty, it was simple but simply done just right.
Roast Kintoa pork chop, with potato terrine, charred Calcot onions, watercress coulis and piquillo peppers and jus. Just what I like. Fat. Although I must applaud the fat here as it was so firm that it seemed as if it was muscly fat. The rectangular potato was like a slice of Dauphinoise potato cut out and carefully grilled. Delicious lightly salted and imbued with butter. I was very sad that it seemed that as soon as I had started, it was just gone. Sounds like it is similar to money.
Ginger poached Yorkshire rhubarb with creme diplomat, lychee and pistachio and rose meringue. I must confess that rhubarb is not my thing. Maybe I should have stayed away but the other dessert offering seems a bit too mundane for me.
Bonhams flirted with greatness on account of its excellent ingredients and simple fare done just right. With Christie’s auction house just across the road, its price tag definitely reflected its genteel atmosphere. If you are around the area, it’s worth a try. Although not worth an auctioneer’s frenzy to attain.
A quiet eating 6.5/10.
Lunch (3 courses) was GBP40 excluding service and drinks.
7 Haunch of Venison Yard