Much as I love a hunk of dripping/smouldering meat, I have learnt that sometimes more vegetarian pursuits can be tasty too.  In particular, bread can distract me from thoughts of a carnivorous kind.

Sourdough baguette and whipped butter.  A particularly beautiful piece of bread.  See how it tempts you in with golden crust and springy interior.  It looked so good that unfortunately it could never live up to that in taste, no matter how good the inside.  It was decent but not awe inspiring.

Plaice crudo, ‘nduja, violina pumpkin, sea purslane.  With a zesty finish offsetting fresh fish, this was sharp and clean tasting.  However, I felt that perhaps the citrus spark was a bit too much, which my dining companion disagreed with.  He thought it was great.  I thought it was ok.

Baked celeriac, chanterelles, hazelnut.  Something truly remarkable.  I didn’t know that celeriac could be so good and that vegetables could be so tempting.  Here, we both agree that it was good.

Venison and prune terrine, roast quince.  A terrine is a terrine is a terrine.  Although decent, memories of this were quickly lost among the plant based delights.

Potato, wild mushroom & Vacherin pie.  Excellent.  Creamy and succulent.  This photo is taken as otherwise the pie would overshadow everything else.  Instead, hiding artfully among the greens, the pie peeks over the vegetation.  When it is your mouth, it overwhelms with full umami taste.  As I ate this, at times, I couldn’t even believe it was meatless.

Comté fries, saffron aioli.  Potatoes and cheese, two of my favourite things.  What makes it even more delightful is when it is my favourite cheese in the whole wide world on display.  Perhaps my joy was also easily observed as the waiting staff smiled at my happiness.  I felt a warm glow in my tummy too.

Bramley apple souffle, hazelnut ice cream.  Beautiful but soon deflated and hoovered into mouth.  Don’t make the mistake I did and think that both of the sides were ice cream.  One is sour cream which will give an unexpected surprise.  If you pick the one you are hoping for, good things happen. You know what they say about assume.  It makes an ass of you and me.  Indeed.

At Levan, instead of vegetables playing counter point or vying for attention with their bloodier siblings, here they easily outshone them.  It goes to remind me that great things can come from humble beginnings.  Like the very dirt beneath our feet.  Maybe I should pay more attention next time I stroll through a garden, although I think that I am above sneaking a leaf into my mouth.  I’m not there yet.


A quiet eating 8/10.

Dinner (3 course equivalent) was GBP35 excluding drinks and service.



12-16 Blenheim Grove
London SE15 4QL


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