Gurkhas
In popular mythology, the Gurkha is known as tough as nails, sharp as a knife and full of hidden energy like a coiled cobra. Folklore has it that Gurkhas coming from Nepal, are used to hardship. That is what makes them what they are. Although one of the poorest regions of the world, the people there are unusually happy.
This was a great contrast as upon entering, it was a fairly upmarket looking restaurant. Indeed, their dress code said smart casual. I turned up in jeans and a shirt on this sweltering day. Most turned up in T-shirt and shorts. I felt cheated (and rather damp).
Putting such unpleasantries aside, I looked forward to the food as the way it was described made it sound rather good. Skipping ahead to the end, I have to say that at least it was accurate. As to whether I would willing pay for it again is another question.
Spicy lamb kachila, karela, marinated lamb tartare, Nepali herbs & spices, crispy bitter gourd. This was interesting like a beef tartare with some almost token throw-away flavourings. Pretty in an abstract kind of way. Lacking in most flavour profiles.
Kukhura ko jhol momo, chicken dumplings, lapsi & tomato sauce. This was a strangely tasteless tomato. The momo skin was good and the minced chicken decent. Unfortunately the sauce let it down as it was in one word, boring.
Monkfish choila, kaakro ko achar, chiura, grilled spiced monkfish, cucumber salad, beaten rice. It was weird. Sweet, salty and rather bland. The fish was rubbery. It was pretty to look at though.
Lamb rump, spiced lentils, garden peas, smoked dhau, mint. A varied mix of vegetable salads with sour cream. Although the lamb was decently cooked medium rare and juicy if strangely tasteless, the vegetables mis mash although delighting in texture was about all the positive energy I could muster. The dhau, beans and peas were perhaps better not described at length and the dish as a whole came across rather confused as it couldn’t really seem to decide whether to be meaty, beanie or cheesy.
Dark chocolate cremeux, guava curd and sorbet, cumin. Chocolate with guava (but what I feel is more accurately described as cucumber) on top. Cucumbers do NOT go with chocolate. Although there are unusual combinations that taste good, like bacon and egg ice cream, cucumber and chocolate is not it.
Khuwa creme caramel, sorrel, whey caramel. Cream with sorrel ice on top. I haven’t really had the pleasure of eating dejected caramel. Now I have. It was rather flat, flaccid and unappealing. Lacking in much taste. The weird sorrel ice with more caramel was rather lacking in oomph too.
Perhaps I should thank this restaurant for at least providing an interesting meal. It has been a while since I’ve had food so weird and boring. Striving like a Gurkha it is not, which is probably a good thing as I prefer to eat my meals with minimum hardship.
A quiet eating 5/10.
Lunch (3 courses) was GBP60 excluding drinks and service.
110 Great Portland Street
London W1W 6PQ